Friday, 5 February 2010

Postmodernism, as I researched and understood it...



I have been reading POSTMODERNIST CULTURE, An introduction to theories of the contemporary by Steven Connor to help understand more this movement and especially how it influenced art.
I want to quote parts of the text I have read and then "debrief" it...

" we might say that the characteristics of postmodernism is this peculiarly complex relationship which it has to modernism which in its very name it has once invoked, admired, suspected or rejected."
For me this means that postmodernism and modernism are in many ways closely linked.

ARCHITECTURE:
MODERNISM: Bauhaus Walter Gropius, Henri Le Corbusier, Mies van der Rohe.

" From now on, architecture was to belong to and express the new. It was to use new materials and embrace the techniques of construction which industrial development had made available, The newness of the modern movement would lie principally in forms of reduction, simplification and concentration."
NEW and SIMPLIFICATION

"Its beauty was now longer to be incidental or supplementary to its function, for its beauty would now be its function."
Introduction of beauty not only as a "plus" but has the aspects of modernism constructions.

"At the same time, architecture was to be the visible expression of a new unity of art, science and industry."

Architecture was the first and most obvious example of the modernist movement.


" Jencks focuses first of all on what he calls the uni valence
of modern architecture. (...) the simple, essential forms (...)usually, this is achieved by the device of repetition, (...) in their approximation of geometrical perfection (...)which does not refer to anything outside itself by quotation or allusion.


Uni valence: the quality of being univalent:

Genetics. (of a chromosome) single; unpaired; not possessing or joining its homologous chromosome in synapsis.)http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/Univalent?o=100074

To me this means that modernism is about simplicity to a extend that it doesn't even link to the "world context".


"The first and most obvious of these is through a return to the sense of the meaningful or referential function of architecture."

Not much connection with the current context but more about a message through architecture.


ART:
MODERNISM: Kandinsky,Klee, Mondrian, Clive Bell (critic), Kant (philosopher)

"What holds modernism together in art is a programme or ideology, rather than a particular, identifiable form of practice; correspondingly, what underline debate about postmodernism is a shift in this programme. This is to say that even more than in architecture,artistic modernism is defined at some point between practice and theory, between artistic objects and their definitions. The postmodernism debate makes this interrelationship even more complex."

Modernism art is about its significance, postmodernism is a following of it adding more to its definition.



Greenberg believes, that because Kant was the first philosopher thoroughly to scrutinize the nature and limitations of reason itself , he is the first real modernist.


"For Greenberg, the undeniable dominance of painting in modernism is due to the achievement of this absolute self-possession and self government, and it's painting's absolute dependence upon its own medium."

SELF SELF and SELF : self criticism, scrutinize, self possession, self-government...

I believe the modernism movement was not about matching in the context anymore but about individuals and the own development of each techniques independently and maybe even about each countries evolving independently...


"Greenberg's attempt, then, is to affirm the uni valence of painting, as Le Corbusier wanted to affirm the essential identity of architecture."



"It might be said that Cavell has run into a certain crucial switch point in the division of modernism from postmodernism in the visual arts, a point at which modernism's intensity of self-definition flips over into a radical uncertainty about art's very means and identity."

Where it changed from modernism to postmodernism, that is when the self when too far too a point that there weren't any more identity in art.



The theory of postmodernism can be separated in two by two Critical groups; the conservative-pluralist "Charles Jencks has identified himself as the central figure of conservative-pluralist theories of artistic postmodernism." and the critical-pluralist which is represented by writers from the journal October.

"Where Jencks imagines a simple break between the restriction of modernist 'absorption' and the openness of post modernist 'theatrically', the October group seek to understand the complex relationships between the terms of the binary opposition."
difference between the two post modernist analysis group.

"One of the signs of this openness to that which lies beyond the self-absorbed work, is the unabashed return to representation, symbolism, connotation, and all the other forms of referentiality."

One of the characteristic of post modernism is this come back to the arts referring to a context.

"..forms of artistic post modernism have all been money spinners, and whose central purpose, in recent years, seems to have been to reconstitute art in the way that Jencks so openly acknowledges, as 'the image of the bourgeoisie triumphant and enjoying itself'"
Post modernism is again the comeback of what art was before the modernism movement.

The structure of oppositions which frames the post modernist analysis of the two groups * therefore has much in common, in setting multi valence against uni valence, impurity against purity, and inter-textuality against singleness of the work."

* conservative-pluralist( Jencks) and critical-pluralist (October) .
This part of the text explain clearly what is the difference between modernism and post modernism.

"This complex passage argues that the non representational sign of the modernist painting always represents something, if only the desire to embody non representation."
Interesting point about modernism and in life generally, even if you are against all kind of "group" then you will be grouped as a non-group.

PHOTOGRAPHY:
" As the quintessentially art, modern art, photography has been one of the most threatening adversaries to the integrity of paintings in the twentieth century.Indeed, one may say that it was partly in reaction to the widespread dissemination of photographic technology that modern painting was forced to turn from representation into the abstract interrogation of its own form of conditions."

The role and evolution of photography in these movements(modernism and post modernism), as I understand it art- photography too the self absorption the modernists had.


I am happy I could read this chapter and understand some of it, it was a challenge for me!

What I will remember from it is that Modernism and Post modernism are closely linked and could not exist independently, I will remember the self of modernism and the back to referential values of the post modernism, I have learnt about architecture and influential names linked to modernist art and post modernist art.


Friday, 29 January 2010

Lecture by Emma Neuberg



http://www.emmaneuberg.blogspot.com/

During that lecture Emma Neuberg was talking about modernism and semiotics ( untold signs and messages)
20Th-21Th textile print, the geometric patterns, graphic line and super flat colours, and the cultural and technological context of that era.

PICTURE

When Freud appeared and the Darwin evolution theory emerged God disappeared from the front scene , the worlds entered a post world environment where the body is part of the design, it was a process of re-socialism through dress. spots, triangle, stripes were part of the the fashion designs of the moment.
The movement was non-bourgeois , there were no place for romance, femininity, arabesque, divine, ornate or gilded ; modernism was a world of speed, graphic line and bold colour. It was the man machine integration



Soviet textiles industry: men at their machines, planes and uniforms, very propaganda like.


This mentality was very urban and was somehow linked with capitalism and communism. Sonia Delaunay painting

"Techno motifs" appeared using wave and electricity in art
Sonia Delaunay is the first artist to have identified electricity as a technological motif for high fashion, her art work inspired then the modernists motifs in the 60's.








Hans Schwipperts designed building, post war

The pan European architecture of the modernist was round up by the Nazis during WW2, many of Bauhaus modernist designs were Jewish, but their influence persisted post war, one good example is Hans Schwipperts work.








Michele Rosier Dress 1960's

At that time fine artists pushed the boundaries; Bridget Riley work and prints inspired the Mod's movement. Ben Shermann also became an important name with his checked shirts that became an symbols for the Mods and later the Skin heads.









Some other designers linked to the modernist movement were Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant and Michele Rosier.

Plastic, short and bright and bold were very present in the modernist fashion.
There were new form, new shapes and stretch, it meant new ideologies, more freedom.

The women fitted very well into this change, they became the body to represent and assimilate the cultural changes.




The semiotics of that period was obvious, no one talked about the change but it was there to be seen. Michele rosier design presented in ELLE gave subtle messages to the reader: Control/ Machine/ City Life




Photo

magasine cover 1960's


This whole idea was present during modernism, it was structuralist, binary: black/white, heaven/hell, now/never... and that could be seen through fashion.


The check board and black and white, bold colours and geometric shapes are timeless.
Lacoste Sportswear fall 08 presented at Mercedes fashion week.
I found this lecture really great, I love to learn about eras of history that are still very much influencing us, from this lecture I got my idea to use the mini skirt by Mary Quant as my Object analysis.
Some books and texts related to the subject:
  • Stern,R. Against Fashion, 1850-1930, 2005
Weltge-Wortmann,S. Bauhaus textiles: women artists and the weaving workshop, 1998
Troy, V. The modernist textile: Europe and America, 1890-1940, 2006

Decode - Digital Design Sensation



DECODE was interesting and fun.
The first part which was more design on screen was good to look at but the second and third part which was more interactive were sensational and was a great update to what you can currently do digitally and with technology ( I am not sure though what it has to do with digital textile design) .
The entrance path through long "ET fingers" was really cool; in the CODE part I really liked the black and red design that expended ( Lia Arcs 21?) it made thing of blood but in a fascinated way.
My two other favourite one from the INTERACTIVITY and NETWORK part of the exhibition was the clock(Ryoji Ikeda data.scan?), i loved the patchwork effects it has.. and like the idea behind it and the fact that you can go and post your own photo on a website.
The video grid by Ross Phillips was the other one that I spent time looking and participating, the outcome is very funny and I enjoyed myself.


Overall I liked the entertaining side of digital design, I felt like everything can be done using digital devices!

RAC "work in progress" exhibition

I found the work of the MA student innovative, unique and personal and flawlessly presented. I took a business card of the one I really enjoyed...
LIST still to come

I realised , by visiting the exhibition, that I am really interested in the print work, I really like the graphic features of the print work presented there. I also found it interesting the final outcome as it wasn't always fashion focused. a part from the print work I really like the knit work!!

It was good to see their work and it really encourage me to keep going and make the best of my BA.

"Neighbourhood Colour" Exhibition

From what I have seen looking at the work exposed in the exhibition, the students had to look at two areas of London , most of the time different in style and atmosphere, they had to look at their colours.

The work I really liked and found perspiration, in general I was attracted by knit and print work and I found that their final outcome was something I would like doing.
I like the knitted top, knitted in fine grayish yarn, the girl( I don't remember her name but she is so nice!)printed on top of her knit with puff binder and devore, both had a terrific effects on the outfit.
I really liked the combination of print and knit and it showed me that textile design stays open minded at Chelsea.
The second one that I loved is the printed fabric with many different cups and digital printed toasts and the "cat rug", I found it very entertaining and enjoyable to look at, it is very actual and funny!

Amongst other I like the knitted garments in many colourful yarns, it was cool to see some technique she used that I had just learned. it was really standing out.
I liked a lot of the stitch work but mainly I liked seeing a concrete example of what can be done in stitch.

In terms of personal research, I was amazed by the hair drawings a girl did, they looked so real! and I liked her material adaptation which was very explicit.

I was happily surprised by the variety of presentation and that motivated me.

Asking about sustainability to the girl whose print were amazing, I was disappointed to realise that it didn't seem to be a strong value in her work and that with all the chemicals used for screen print, it didn't matter.

Globally I enjoyed looking at every one's work, it helped me a lot toward my specialisation decision.

Friday, 22 January 2010

Mary Quant Mini-dress: object analysis presentation notes and pictures


What? The mini-dress by Mary Quant ( black and white mini-dress, bonded wool and nylon hersey. White buttons at the front and white stitched lines at the bottom -Victoria and Albert Museum 1967)
the context:
  • 1960s
  • a generation born after WW II in desperate need of change
  • drab and dutiful fifties VS. Swinging sixties
  • first teenagers
  • play with convention against the established
  • the Mods and ever changing fashion
Why?
  • interested in the link between fashion and society
  • need to learn more about fashion era, and what they represented on a wider scale
  • 1960s in particular, as many think that has happened are still "alive" now
Concept, ideas
  • mini-dress, so more of a women point of view of the 1960s
  • like between the social changes and fashion changes
  • the mini- skirt says a lot about the decade, what other symbols?
Methods of research
  • Videos
  • Internet
  • Books
  • Awareness
  • Key Text: Swinging sixties: Fashion in London and beyond 1955-1970

Designers, Artists, Books
  • Mary Quant
  • John Stephen
  • Twiggy
  • The Beatles, The Who
  • Exhibition: Carnaby Street 50th Birthday, Pictures of Philip Townsend




Some pictures related to my object analysis
First step of my research... looked at website, videos and images
and wrote rough notes and now I need to leave it so it can grow on me...
Felling happy about my choice
















Friday, 15 January 2010

Visit To Blythe House

Blythe House is part of the Victoria and Albert Museum and contains archives of artists and companies in decorative arts (not only textiles).
The archives are mainly British based and from the 20's century. they are to be found on the national art line catalog on the V&A website, with all the description needed.

I took some notes of what I liked or what caught my attention and made me want to come back or research further on.
On the first spot, the exposed archives were from Heal a company founded in 1810 whose head quarters were in Tottenham Court Road. there were pretty popular.
The second spot was Ambassador Magasine it is a textiles magasine founded in 1933 it was edited first in Amsterdam and then London (due to 2ND World War, Amsterdam and London editors lost contact and once the war finished London editors had continued publishing).
The third one was Presage a fashion and textile forecast magasine published in Paris in 1961.
I really liked that one because of the way the presented the magasine and how it is just full of samples and colours and drawings.I enjoyed looking at the 60's fashion design.
The fourth one is was W.Gordon Hunton who was a calico printer in the 40's and invented this device, glass curved in a way that the drawing would repeat and create a pattern. I admire the drawings a lot because they were simply beautiful made.
The fifth spot was Samuel Courtaulds which was more of a furnishing textile company, it was the 1940's biggest textile manufacturer.
we also had the opportunity to look at Oberkampf samples (1830-1860 -French printed )and as well as Lyon collection of silk (19th century - French) and Morton Sundour textiles sample ( 20th century:20's,30's and 50's) in big, old book that smelt moist.
I took rough notes of the things that caught my attention and that I would like to find out about a bit more:
The company Reichenbach and Co from St-Gall Switzerland
I would like to learn more about Swiss textiles
The colour combination sheet
the way they presented it with an A4 page with lines of coloured circle and over it an A4 page with 5 holes and depending and how the page moves it gives different colour palette (Presage)
W. Gordon Hunton drawing of little characters in a graphic style
I liked the modernity, it is comic book like
Drawing on Frieze paper
Tricel?
I found amazing the quality of the work presented in term of its conservation.