"out of all industries, the textile industry is the second more polluting in the world."
The key issues:
- chemical pollution
- energy inefficiency
- unethical production
- transporation
- consumer use
- over consumption and waste ( fast fashion)
What are the issues in the different stages of the textile production:
grow/ manufacturer: labour, chemical, water
ship to spinner: transportation
dye fabrics: labour, chemicals, water, package
dye, finish, embellish: labour, package
cut and sew product: labour, package
different fibers:
naturals: plant: cotton, ramie, hemp( interesting in the UK as self sufficient), raffia, sisal, jute
animal: silk, alpaca, cashmere, mohair, angora, place silk
celluloses regenerated ( wood pulp): viscose, rayon, cupro, lycell(tencell), bamboo, acetate, tricaetate
synthetic petroleum based: nylon, Lycra, acrylic, polyester
new fiber: starch ( ingeo) genetically modified corn - nothing really has the perfect answer
We have this ideas that cotton is GOOD and polyester is BAD but it is much more complicated than that, if we look at the whole cycles of either cotton production or polyester production.
This fact actually changes a lot of things for designer as there is much more freedom in fabric use and we can find more idea for a more eco-friendly textile industry.
natural dyes, yes or no?
- good for small and craft industry but more complex for bigger industries, the quality of the dye is not always as hoped for.
- if using synthetic dye, choose your colour well, as they all have different level of impact on the environment.
- solution: close water loop, constantly re using the same water.
The problem might be somewhere else...
- production and finishing
- offcuts, where do they go?
- etc.. find your own issue and work on it
good website and books:
- www.climatex.com textile and environment issues
- cradle to cradle industry and environnment
- http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/home/ ethical fashion, courses and etc...
- http://www.pan-uk.org/ cotton production issues
AO TEXTILES LTD.
Karen Purgin diverse work
Emma D'arcey marbelling
Penny Walsh natural dyes
Spike money
Aveda sustainable project; great outfit and production, interesting that Aveda cares about environment
!!! Important to have someone looking at the financial part of your business!!!
