Thursday, 10 December 2009

Ethical Fashion Forum - 20th November

MORAL FIBRE VS THE WEST COAST WEAVING ESTABLISHMENT (WESCOTEX)



Local materials and production VS globalised production



Both companies are based in India, they both sell cotton items among others: bed linen , cushion and cotton fabrics.


Moral Fibre offers hand spun and handwoven cotton, dyed with only natural dyes that are harmless to people's health and the environment. They sell fabrics, a feel-well fashion range and a furnishing range.

Some historical facts are interesting to understand the motivation behind Moral Fibre's cause.



In the early 18Th century, India had a very powerful influence in the textiles business, so much that it started to badly affect the British wool and silk imports.

In 1970s, the British, to restore their status, end the concurrence and benefit from the Indian market, instored an import duty on East Indian Fabrics. India lost his place as a supplier to the world of fabrics (...).
America and England became business partners and create the Trading Triangle between the USA, England and Africa. Great fortunes were made for a few, on the backs of the poors.


The textile industry in India did not break down totally and small quantities of textiles were still produced.


Between the 1920s and 1960s, the invention of man made fibres changed everything in the textiles world, cotton was not No 1 anymore. the consummation generation started here and cheap clothes were available to everyone. Behind the label of a cosy fleece lie some uncomfortable truths.

Pesticides and other chemicals to grow cotton have also invaded the textile world, as cotton is prone to insect attacks. The cotton farmers have to handle dangerous chemicals and pesticide which harm their health and damage the land. as well as the pesticides and chemicals issue, genetically modified cotton has appeared on the market It is also a threat for the environment and for the people whose lives depend on the growth and trade of cotton.



In 2007, consumers worldwide spent over US $1 trillion on clothes. Yet the garment industry remains one of the worlds most exploitative sectors, against people and the environment.




Moral Fibre has two aims:
  • to develop environmentally friendly fabrics

  • to make the process of fabric making socio-economically sustainable





Moral Fibre wants ethical clothing; inspired by Mahatma Gandhi and the hand work of many fabric producers in India; Moral fibre provides work and places to live for their workers and hand spun and hand woven fabrics which means it is almost zero carbon foot print.

http://www.moralfibre-fabrics.com/



I chose to compare Moral Fibre to The West coast Weaving Establishment (Wescotex)

As mentioned above, both companies sell similar type of products and are both based in India.

While Moral Fibre principles are all about ethics and sustainability, Wescostex's ones are all about exporting to as many countries as possible and growing bigger!

The company was created almost 100 years ago, in 1916. With its team of more than 2000 employees (nothing about how they are considered, paid or recognised...) it has now obtained the status of Export House recognised by the government of India and have been awarded the Government of India gold medal for excellence in export performance ( fast.. but is it eco-friendly?)

Even though the company claims to use eco-friendly dyeing and azo-free dyestuff, they are proud to promote vibrant hues, weaves and designs.


Even though my opinion can be seen as slightly too subjective, I am not able to see ethics and sustainability as Wescotex values, they might have use some bits of eco-friendly materials but it is clearly not their first aim, their website and company description is all about the prestige, they money and massive production!

I have been charmed by Moral fibre's values for they are very ethical, they see the human being behind the clothes. They care about the planet and the people trying to survive in the material and consummation world we live in. Their aim is undoubtedly to conserve and value the beauty of Indian clothes maker work and help them have a better life out of it.

http://www.wescotex.in/